New NMPA Policy to Support Innovation in Cosmetic Ingredients

In 2025, the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) issued the guiding policy “Several Provisions on Supporting Innovation in Cosmetic Ingredients” (No. 12 of 2025), which serves as a framework for future regulatory developments. While this policy took effect immediately from the date of announcement, detailed implementation regulations are still expected. This policy seeks to promote innovation in cosmetic ingredients through nine core measures, build a market-oriented collaborative innovation system, and accelerate high-quality industry development.

Policy Background

The total value of China's cosmetic market reached CNY 620 billion in 2024, with an average annual growth rate of 12%. In recent years, innovation in the area of cosmetic ingredients has become the primary driver of growth. In 2024, NMPA approved 62 new cosmetic ingredients, with international companies accounting for 35% of this figure. Most notably, plant extracts and synthetic biotechnology ingredients saw significant growth.

Key Policy Highlights

1) Guidance on New Ingredient Registration and Filing Classification

First-time used ingredients, both domestic and international, may qualify for streamlined safety assessments in the future, provided that a scientific safety assessment report is submitted. However, as of now, the specific requirements for exemptions or simplified evaluation processes are not yet defined.

Ingredients with a history of safe use are expected to benefit from simplified evaluation requirements, allowing reference to historical data such as the EU Cosing and US INCI database. Additionally, improved ingredients follow clear pathways for change studies, potentially reducing the technical review cycle by 30%.

2) Synchronized Declaration Mechanism for New Ingredients and Products

The special cosmetics joint declaration is expected to allow companies to submit registration applications for special cosmetics containing new ingredients simultaneously during the filing process, shortening the review cycle to 6–8 months instead of the usual 12 months. Additionally, the upgraded intelligent review system enables electronic joint declaration by automatically linking ingredient and product data, reducing repetitive submissions.

3) Priority Review Channel for Innovative Ingredients

Key support areas include modern technology combined with traditional Chinese plant resources such as Ganoderma lucidum and ginseng extracts, biotechnological fermentation, and green synthetic ingredients. Once detailed regulations are issued, new ingredients and related products that meet the criteria may qualify for the priority review, reducing approval times by 40%.

4) Safety Monitoring and Adverse Reaction Linkage

New ingredients will be subject to close monitoring for three years after market entry, with companies required to submit semi-annual safety update reports. Additionally, inter-departmental cooperation ensures that risk control measures, such as recalls and label revisions, are implemented within 48 hours in response to risk signals.

Core Impact on International Cosmetics Manufacturers

China’s changing regulatory framework presents new opportunities for international manufacturers, though its full impact will depend on future implementation details. These changes aim to reduce entry barriers, accelerate approval timelines, and enhance collaboration between global companies and local industry stakeholders.

1) Reduced Compliance Costs

The acceptance of international safety assessment reports in both Chinese and English is anticipated but not yet confirmed in detailed regulations. Additionally, first-time applications for innovative ingredients in China may qualify for toxicology exemptions, depending on forthcoming regulatory clarifications.

2) Accelerated Market Access

The joint declaration mechanism is expected to allow ingredients and products to be approved simultaneously, shortening time to market by six months. Moreover, the policy’s emphasis on Chinese plant extracts presents opportunities for international companies to expand through local partnerships.

3) Enhanced Local Collaboration

The NMPA has introduced pre-consultation windows at the provincial level to assist with classification determinations and pre-review of documents. Additionally, in 2025, the development of 50 prioritized raw material standards will invite international companies to participate in standard-setting, strengthening their technical influence in the market.

Compliance Recommendations for International Companies

As China continues to refine its regulatory framework, international companies must take a proactive approach to compliance. While the guiding policy suggests positive changes, its practical impact will only be clear once detailed implementation rules are issued. Strategic planning, thorough data preparation, and effective risk management will be key to ensuring smooth market entry and long-term success.

1) Strategy Adjustment

Prioritize innovative ingredient declarations by focusing on policy-preferred areas, while monitoring for future regulatory updates. Additionally, synchronize raw material filing with special cosmetic registration through joint declaration planning to optimize review resource utilization once the framework is finalized.

2) Data Preparation

Compile global safety records spanning at least five years, including literature and toxicological data, to establish a strong safety history for raw materials. Ensure that safety assessment reports and production process documentation adhere to NMPA format requirements for localized compliance while staying updated on evolving standards.

3) Risk Management

Implement real-time adverse reaction tracking systems and establish Chinese emergency response plans to ensure compliance with monitoring period regulations. Additionally, conduct thorough label and claim reviews to avoid non-compliant expressions such as "medical efficacy," in accordance with the Cosmetic Label Management Measures.

Further Information

To read the NMPA's announcement on Supporting Innovation in Cosmetic Ingredients, please click here.

To learn more about Cisema's NMPA cosmetics registration services, please click here.